cafes. It is also home to the country's government and national treasures.
Buildings of interest include: the modernist Beehive (the executive wing of
Parliament); the old Government Building (one of the largest all-wooden
buildings in the world); the National Library (housing the most
comprehensive collection of books in the country); and the Katherine
Mansfield Memorials (the property where the famous author was born in
1888). In addition, there are museums, a zoo and stunning views of the city
from atop Mt Victoria. Cuba Street has great shopping, Thorndon has
historic sites of interest, Lambton Quay is the primary business street and
Mt Victoria is the place to go for cheap accommodation and dining.
South Island
The South Island crams in glaciers, fiords, turbulent rivers, trout
streams, rainforests, mossy beech forests, palmy beaches and a number of
mountains that top 3000 metres - a repertoire to inspire even the most
sluggish arms, legs and lungs. It's an island where you can fish, paddle,
pedal, raft, hike and walk in some of the most gorgeous scenery on earth.
Most journeys begin in postcard-perfect Picton, where the ferry from the
North Island arrives, or Christchurch, a city under the delusion that it is
somewhere in southern England. From either of these points, you can make
your way to any number of attractions: the labyrinth of tributaries known
as the Marlborough Sounds; nearby Nelson, a city famous for its wines and
succulent seafood; Mount Cook National Park, where New Zealand's tallest
peaks are found; Queenstown, nestled beneath the saw-toothed peaks of The
Remarkables; and, further south, the reserves of podocarp forests and fauna
found in the Catlins. The people, much like the weather and topography, are
robust. The roads are excellent for a self-drive holiday.
Marlborough Sounds
The convoluted waterways of the Marlborough Sounds, formed when the sea
invaded a series of river valleys after the ice ages, are home to bays,
islands and coves. Separated by forested knuckles of land that rise from
the sea, the Sounds are an exhilarating place with activities such as sea
kayaking and white-water rafting and interesting wildlife that includes sea
gannets, tuatara lizards (relics from the dinosaur age), even carnivorous
snails! There are also great walks, including the Queen Charlotte Walkway
(a 58-km track among lush forest) and the Abel Tasman Coastal Track in the
Abel Tasman National Park (220 sq km of beaches, sea coves, forest and
granite gorges).
Wine, good food and a climate conducive to year-round activity are features
of the towns of Nelson, Picton and Blenheim. The crayfish from Kaikoura are
superb but it is a town famous for much larger fry - sperm whales.
Whalewatch and dolphin swimming tours are manifold and inexpensive.
West Coast
Wild, craggy and desolate, the West Coast is an area buffeted by heavy seas
and drenching rain. Keri Hulme, the Booker Prize winner, calls the region
home, drawing inspiration from its 'bleak and ascetical' landscape.
Understandably, those who live here - commonly known as `Coasters' - occupy
a unique place in the national folklore. Activities include canoeing and
riding the rapids down Moeraki River, fishing for brown trout in the lakes,
watching penguins and fur seals lazing on the greenstone beaches, and
squelching through forests (which are much to the liking of the rapacious
ringtail possum).
Harihari
Harihari, a small town on the West Coast, made world headlines in 1931,
when Guy Menzies completed the first solo flight across the Tasman Sea from
Australia. The journey was hassle-free but the landing proved a disaster:
the aircraft overturned in a swamp, and Menzies, on undoing his safety
straps, fell - much to the delight of the cheering locals - head first into
the mud. The town is now known as a base for coastal walks, birdwatching
and trout and salmon fishing.
Westland National Park
The Westland National Park has over 60 glaciers, with the most accessible
being the Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier: you can almost hear the
strangulated groans, tweaks and gurgles as they slowly advance down the
mountainside. The town of Greymouth is the western terminal for the
passenger train TranzAlpine Express, which winds its way over the Southern
Alps - through beech forests, glacial valleys and mountains - on to
Christchurch.
Canterbury
The hub of the South Island, Canterbury is one of the driest and flattest
areas of New Zealand. The predominant feature of the region is the
capacious Canterbury Plains, situated between the coast and the mountain
foothills, which is devoted to farming and agriculture.
Paradoxically, Canterbury contains most of New Zealand's highest mountains
such as Mt Cook and Mt Tasman. The area's major city is Christchurch which
has genteel, sylvan suburbs, up-market eateries and cafes, and is home to
the Wizard, a Rabelaisian figure who dominates lunchtime discussion in
Cathedral Square. Gently steering its course through the city and suburbs
is the ankle-deep, willow-lined Avon River - perfect for punting.
To the east of Christchurch is the feral coastline of Banks Peninsula,
dominated by gnarled volcanic peaks; it is also the location of Lyttelton,
which has excellent arts and crafts stores. A good day trip from
Christchurch is to the Frenchified town of Akaroa which boasts the best
fish & chips in the country. West of Christchurch is the settlement of
Arthurs Pass, which is a great base for tackling walks, climbs and skiing
in Arthurs Pass National Park. To the south lie the picturesque towns of
Geraldine and Fairlie, the high, tussock-grass plateau known as the
Mackenzie Country and the World Heritage Area that is Mt Cook National
Park. The imperious Mt Cook (3755 metres) is the highest peak in
Australasia, and offers plenty of walks and unlimited scope for tramping,
rock climbing, lung-cleansing and sightseeing.
Copland Pass
The gruelling four-day Copland Pass trek in the Mt Cook National Park is a
once-in-a-lifetime adventure that can only be completed in good weather by
well-prepared, experienced teams or with professional guides. The terrain
varies from glaciers and snowfields to rainforest and thermal pools. The
pass is 2150 metres high and is surrounded by dramatic 3000-metre peaks.
This is no stroll and should only be attempted by professional masochists
experienced in the use of ice axes, crampons and alpine route-finding.
Apparently the sense of achievement in crossing the pass entitles you to
enter an elite club of euphoric high-achievers.
Queenstown
Queenstown, set in a glacial valley on the edge of Lake Wakatipu, is a town
synonymous with hairy adventures: parasailing; schussing down icy rapids in
jet boats; white-water rafting; and bungy jumping off Skippers Canyon
Bridge - the latest and most terrifying stunt is plunging 300 metres from a
helicopter.
Fiordland National Park
Fiordland National Park, which takes its name from its glacier-carved
coast, is a wilderness of mountains, ice and beech forests. The scenic
climax of Fiordland is undoubtedly Milford Sound where cruise ships bob toy-
like beneath the shadows of towering mountains and waterfalls. There are
classic alpine walks, including the Routeburn Track (in Mt Aspiring
National Park), the Hollyford Valley and the Milford Track (billed as the
'finest in the world').
Otago Peninsula
Otago Peninsula is a significant wildlife area with woodland gardens,
albatross, penguin and seal colonies, plus aquariums, museums and historic
sites. Dunedin, a student city on the peninsula, is a hub for arts and
entertainment, and is famous for producing an eclectic pool of
internationally successful rock bands. Scottish to its core, the city has a
rich architectural heritage with many museums, galleries and castles.
Southland
There are a series of huge lakes in the area, including Hawea and nearby
Wanaka in Otago, and Lake Te Anau in Southland. Te Anau, gouged out by a
huge glacier, is New Zealand's second largest lake and features caves full
of glow worms, and waterfalls and whirlpools. The Catlins, the largest
remaining area of native forest on the east coast of the South Island, is
between Invercargill and Dunedin. It has reserves of rarefied plants and
trees, plus fauna such as fur seals, sea lions, penguins and ducks.
Stewart Island
New Zealand's third largest island, Stewart Island is an ornithologist's
delight: tuis, parakeets, kakas, bellbirds, fernbirds and robins abound.
The kiwi, rare in both the North and South Island, is common over much of
the island, particularly around beaches. A good network of walking tracks
and huts exist in the northern part of the island but the south is
forgettable, being undeveloped and isolated. The people (a paltry 450 in
all) are hardy, taciturn and suspicious of mainlanders, the weather is
changeable and the accommodation is basic; there are, however, excellent-
value homestays on the island.
